Ah...after the necessary nap to recoup from the long weekend, I now have the time and energy to attempt to convey to you the once-in-a-lifetime experiences of this weekend passed.
Friday morning, our group of 8 arrived in San Sebastian to a morning drizzle after no sleep for the night. As it was 6:30 am when we arrived, the city was just starting to wake, so four of us decided to explore a bit by foot on the way to the other four’s hotel. The touristy part of the town is set around a crescent shaped beach called “La Concha,” which means shell in Spanish. Keegan, Cameron, and I spent a couple hours in the morning rock crawling along the coast where I thought we might find a neat place to set the hammocks up for the night. Fortunately, we didn’t find a place because on the way back to the regular beach, we spoke with an old man who was collecting snails for his granddaughter and he said that the tide rose like 12 feet in the afternoon which meant we wouldn’t have been able to get back to the regular part of town for quite a while. We then found a tranquil park where we set up the hammocks to take a nap. We hid our packs in the bushes and dozed for an hour. Before we went to sleep, I asked Keegan how long he wanted to sleep, and after no response, I said that we should just wake up when it became beautiful out. An hour later, we awoke to completely different weather - my prediction: no clouds, wind, and an 85 degree perfect-for-sun-bathing air temperature. We made our way down to the beach where we ran into some people from our group and enjoyed the better part of the afternoon. There was a street that bordered the water on the bottom part of the crescent, and after the tide came in, it was deep enough to jump 15 feet from the wall into the ocean. We ran into a girl who was wearing a UCONN sweatshirt and one of the guys from our group said something to them because he hates UCONN for basketball reasons. We ended up in a conversation with them; they turned out to be from Arkansas and knew a couple people that Keegan knew. We ended up meeting up with them later that night to walk around the city together. We set up the hammocks around 8 pm, just in time to watch a beautiful sunset. We met up with the girls, had dinner, and walked around with some of their friends from their five week program in San Sebastian. The streets were filled with Americans, I could not believe the ridiculously large amount of English being spoken. I then realized why Americans have the stereotype that we do, as there were hundreds of loud, drunken American kids running around in the street.
The next day we spent on the beach, and preparing for a night without sleep. The beach on the other side of the river had some nice waves where a bunch of people were surfing and boogie boarding. They had some stands set up on the beach for what would appear to be seating for a surfing competition, but the waves certainly weren’t that nice. One of the guys in our group said that he had seen surf competitions on TV in San Sebastian, but it must have been a different time of year or something. Nevertheless, it was a good chance for me to observe some of the techniques that I will be needing in the coming weeks when I begin to learn out in San Diego. Unfortunately, Keegan must have gotten a bit of food poisoning from his steak the night before because he was sick for a good 24 hours with nausiousness and vomiting. Following a short ride to Pamplona at 9:15 pm, we arrived just in time for the best fireworks show I have ever seen. They have one every night, and I’m sure it is a very expensive show to put on, as the finale lasted a good 3 minutes of pure firepower; my shorts were literally shaking from the waves in the air. I spent my night in Pamplona exploring and taking in the festivities, without a drop of alcohol. They say it rains calimocho (wine and coke mixed) in Pamplona, but somehow I managed to survive the night with not a drop on me. Our professor was a bit off on the numbers in Pamplona, as there were two million people in the city on Saturday night. I expected a little pueblo with dirt streets for the running, but it was much more modern than that. The streets that we ran on were indeed cobblestone, and were quite slippery from all of the drinks spilled on it during the night/week. You could tell the people who had been there the previous nights because of the large purple stains on their white outfits from the calimocho. It was a great feeling to know that we were at a party that people come to from around the world to participate in the festivities. I came up with a drunk-proof solution for keeping our stuff safe – I climbed a tree and Hayley handed up our bags so that I could hang them 25 feet above the ground, high enough to be out of reach of any lazy thieves. It was also neat to see everyone there in white outfits with a red bandana around the neck and a red sash, so that everyone looked nearly the same. As 5:30 am approached, I roused those who were lying down to make sure they could get there in time to see the course and to pick out the spot they wanted to watch from. By this time, I had already walked the course a couple times and had a good idea of what I thought would be the ideal route. Unfortunately for the girls with us, they found a fence to sit on but had to move just before the running. There are two sets of fences surrounding parts of the running, one to hold the crowd back and another to keep the bulls in line (and for the runners to jump over for protection). Keegan and I positioned ourselves at the top of a slight hill where we could see the bulls coming from about 100 yards away, so we’d have some fair warning. We actually met one of the most famous rugby players in the world beforehand when we were talking with some Englishmen, that was pretty neat. When we saw the bulls round the corner, chaos broke loose and it was a mad dash to see how far you could get before the bulls caught up to you. We made it about 80 yards down the course before the bulls caught up to us and we had to bail out on a fence. I could have touched the bulls as they passed, but I was concerned about a horn snagging my leg, so I didn’t push my luck. After the bulls passed, I sprinted to keep up with them until we entered the Plaza de Toros, where all the runners who make it in time gather to have some more fun with the bulls. They let four bulls out of their pens, one by one (only one at a time though), and the bull just runs rampant in the ring where crazy people dodge the bull as he comes charging past. The second bull that they let out was a jumper; he jumped clear over the wall surrounding the plaza only 10 feet away from me into the area between the wall and the stands. He then turned towards us and made his way around the outside of the ring forcing people to jump back into the ring. There were quite a few people who were gored by the bulls, but only resulted in some ripped clothes and I’m sure some pretty nasty bruises. One guy, who looked like a rugby player with soccer shorts and green and black striped soccer socks on, decided to go head to head with the bull when it ran at him. He grabbed the bull by the horns, literally, and tried to take him down. After he got thrown off, about 30 of the guys in the ring started beating the crap out of this guy riot-style. They calmed down after about a minute, but he was rudely informed of the rule that you’re not supposed to touch the bulls. The last bull came over right in front of us and ran his horns across the wall trying to push everyone over the wall. So I was busy catching the people around me who were frantically jumping over the six foot tall wall, it was incredible. I’m really glad that we got to participate in this because the running only lasted about five minutes, but in the ring, we spent 45 minutes. If anyone is to go to the running of the bulls in the future, my advice to you is this: If you just want to watch, that’s fine, but pretend like you are going to run, and right when the first firework goes off signaling that the gates are open, hop over the fence and then you have the best seat in the house, versus trying to see from the crowd. If you want to run, make sure you don’t run too early, because the people in our group who went the night before us made it to the plaza before the bulls got there, so they technically didn’t even get to run with the bulls. All in all, my conclusion is that the running of the bulls is not as dangerous as it is made out to be, but the drunk/stupid people who get hurt every day usually aren’t those who are taking any precaution and who are getting close to the bulls for a rush. This danger is quite manageable in my opinion.
Now that we’re back at the residence, I had a chance to catch up on two of the three nights of sleep that I missed from the weekend. Tonight, we have flamenco lessons from one of our professors at the school, I’m sure it will be interesting. I bought tickets this afternoon for a Bela Fleck and the Flecktones concert for next Wednesday night, I’m pumped about that. Last night, I was searching for the location of the Bela Fleck concert and I discovered that a Pink Floyd cover band was opening for Alan Parsons Project a block away, but it started an hour before I discovered this. I decided to go see if I could hear anything from outside the plaza. We missed the Pink Floyd cover band, and we could hear Alan Parsons Project playing outside the entrance. I wasn’t willing to pay 20 euros, so we stuck around for Psychobabble, then took off.
Thursday morning, we are leaving for a weekend tour of the south province of Spain, called Andalucia, which will include Sevilla, Cordoba, and Grenada. I’m looking forward to getting to see some of the muslim influence in Spain, but not so much about the 110 degree heat that we will be suffering through meanwhile. We have a free weekend next weekend, and I’m trying to decided where we should go, maybe to Valencia, the south coast of Spain like Cadiz or Tarifa, or Portugal. Everyone else is planning to go to Barcelona, but we will be coming back through that city on the last stop of our Eurotrip post-programa. Any suggestions?